• Put chicken broth in a large pan. Add chicken, garlic, salt and fish sauce. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low, cover and simmer 1 hour. Remove chicken and garlic from broth. Keep broth on low heat.

• When chicken is cool enough to handle, remove and discard skin. Remove meat from bones and shred. Discard bones. Put the garlic in a medium bowl with salt and pepper. Mash garlic, then add chicken and toss to coat chicken. Keep warm.

• Put a heavy skillet over high heat for a minute or so to heat it through. Add half the sesame oil and half the cabbage. Spread the cabbage out in the skillet and let it cook 30 to 60 seconds to barely soften it, seasoning it with salt and pepper. Repeat with remaining cabbage (cook different colors in separate batches).

• Taste broth for seasoning, adding salt, fish sauce and/or chili sauce as desired. Bring to a boil and put 2 cups of broth in a bowl. Add noodles. Top with cabbage and chicken, sprinkle with cilantro, green onions and sesame seeds. Pass the hot sauce.

To make homemade noodles:

• Combine 4 cups all-purpose flour, 2 tablespoons cooking oil and 1 teaspoon salt in a bowl. Add 1½ cups water and stir until the mixture comes together completely.

• Knead 10 or 15 times and place the dough in a plastic bag. Set aside for at least 15 minutes. Knead again to make a smooth ball and allow to rest in the bag another 15 minutes (at any point you need to leave it you can refrigerate the ball and come back to it later). Repeat 2 more times.

• Divide the dough in 6 pieces and roll out on a lightly floured surface as thinly as you can. If the dough rolls out and then springs back to original shape, let it rest (I usually have 2 going at once). Roll the dough up from the narrow end, lightly dusting the top as you roll to keep it from sticking. Using a sharp knife, cut the dough in thin pieces, then fluff the pieces so they unroll and dust with a little more flour. Repeat with all 6 pieces.

• Boil in salted water for 5 minutes, or until cooked through. Add to soup.